Vogue's Guide to Monte Carlo: From Casino Glamour to the Côte d’Azur

Monte Carlo, described by a 1936 Vogue dispatch as "Europe's one Eldorado—a realm where Illusion is queen," has long captivated the magazine's attention. Even amidst the turmoil of war in 1917, Vogue noted Monte Carlo's improbable social season, a testament to its enduring appeal. The principality's connection to the arts is also highlighted by the world premiere of Puccini's La rondine at the Opéra de Monte-Carlo in the same year, a cultural highlight that Vogue continued to follow through its coverage of opera and ballet for decades.

The allure of Monte Carlo extends to fashion, with photographer Helmut Newton returning multiple times for iconic Vogue shoots in 1979 and 1989. The setting offers a natural stage with its Belle Époque architecture, opulent terraces, glamorous casinos, elegant convertibles, dazzling diamonds, chic swimwear, luxurious yachts, and the striking blue of the Mediterranean. All this is contained within a principality comparable in size to New York's Central Park, creating a condensed, breathtaking panorama.

Glamour in Monte Carlo often embraces boldness. Writer Alan Jolis once characterized the principality for Vogue as a blend of "vulgar, both nouveau riche and old rich, classy and totally déclassé." Yet, he acknowledged that its "fairy-tale princesses and princes manage to outweigh the sleaze, the coarseness, the hype." This inherent contradiction fuels its enduring charm. While Monte Carlo can be ostentatious, its deep historical roots are easily overlooked amidst the spectacle of supercars and superyachts.

Looking beyond the surface reveals the Monte Carlo that has fascinated Vogue for over a century: the cultural figures like Diaghilev and Puccini, the Grimaldi royal family and Grace Kelly, the architectural marvels of Charles Garnier's opera house and casino, and grand hotels with a history dating back to the 19th century. Coupled with modern developments reshaping the coastline, the principality's illusion of timeless enchantment remains powerfully intact.

What to See

The following are highlights of Monte Carlo's enduring appeal:

• The iconic Casino de Monte-Carlo
• The Opéra de Monte-Carlo
• The luxurious Grand Hotels
• The stunning Mediterranean coastline
• The principality's rich history and royal heritage

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English Translation:

"Europe has one Eldorado—Monte Carlo! It is nothing but a rock, yet it is a realm where Illusion is queen. The skies and sea, there, are blue more often than elsewhere, and time suspends its flight, for roulette turns much faster than the hands of a watch," began a Vogue dispatch from Monte Carlo in May 1936.

By then, the magazine had been chronicling life in this small Mediterranean principality for decades. In 1917, with Europe at war, Vogue reported—under the wonderfully improbable headline “Monte Carlo Is as Gay as—Monte Carlo”—on a social season that continued nonetheless. That same year, Puccini’s La rondine premiered at the Opéra de Monte-Carlo, one episode in a performing arts history that Vogue would follow through decades of opera and ballet.

Monte Carlo has also proven an irresistible backdrop for fashion. Helmut Newton repeatedly returned to it, including for two extraordinary Vogue shoots a decade apart, in 1979 and 1989. The attraction is easy to understand. Few places offer such a ready-made mise-en-scène: Belle Époque hotels, palace terraces, casino tables, convertibles, diamonds, bathing suits, yachts, and the startling blue of the Mediterranean, all compressed into a principality barely larger than Central Park.

Of course, glamour here has not always meant restraint. Writing for Vogue, Alan Jolis once described Monte Carlo as “vulgar, both nouveau riche and old rich, classy and totally déclassé,” before conceding that somehow its “fairy-tale princesses and princes manage to outweigh the sleaze, the coarseness, the hype.” That contradiction remains part of its appeal. Monte Carlo can be flashy, even absurdly so, but it also possesses a depth of history that is easy to miss amid the supercars and superyachts.

Look beyond them, and you find the Monte Carlo that has fascinated Vogue for more than a century: Diaghilev and Puccini, the Grimaldis and Grace Kelly, Charles Garnier’s opera house and casino, grand hotels that have been receiving guests since the 19th century—and, increasingly, ambitious new additions reshaping the coastline. The illusion, in other words, is still very much intact. A guide to the municipality, below.

What to See

Discover the timeless allure of Monte Carlo:

• The opulent Casino de Monte-Carlo, a symbol of its glamorous past and present.
• The historic Opéra de Monte-Carlo, a venue for world-class performances.
• The grand Belle Époque hotels that have hosted generations of discerning travelers.
• The breathtaking Côte d’Azur scenery, with its azure waters and stunning coastline.
• The rich cultural heritage and the enduring legacy of the Grimaldi family and icons like Grace Kelly.